Plant oils play a valuable role in skincare. They nourish, protect, support the skin barrier, and provide immediate comfort. Yet, not all oils work in the same way. Some support the skin, helping it regain its natural balance and maintain its suppleness. Others, depending on their composition, can create a heavier film, slow the penetration of active ingredients, or not be suitable for certain skin conditions.
At Shakti, we return to the essentials: understanding the structure of an oil, its affinity with the skin, and above all, its ability to support skin balance rather than simply coating the surface.
An oil is not just an oil: understanding its composition
Each plant oil is made up of a combination of fatty acids.
It is these fatty acids, and their proportions, that determine whether an oil will be:
- light or richer
- regulating or occlusive
- stable or prone to oxidation
- suitable or unsuitable for sensitive, combination, dry, or congested skin
The secret, therefore, lies not only in the visible texture, but in the molecular structure of the oil.
Three elements are particularly important:
- the proportion of omega 3, 6, 7, and 9
- the lipid structure (degree of unsaturation of the fatty acids)
- its level of *comedogenicity
*The concept of comedogenicity is relative: an oil may suit one person and not another depending on the condition of their skin.
An oil rich in omega 3 and 6 tends to be balancing, soothing, and restorative.
An oil very rich in saturated fatty acids or omega 9 will be more nourishing, but also heavier and more occlusive depending on the skin.
Oils that regulate and balance: those that support the skin without overloading it
Some plant oils have a remarkable affinity with the skin. They closely resemble natural sebum, support the skin barrier, and contribute to overall balance.
Among these oils are:
Jojoba oil
Technically a plant wax, very similar to human sebum.
It regulates both overactive and underactive sebum production while protecting the skin, making it one of the most versatile oils.
Hemp oil
Very rich in omega 3 and 6, it is known for its soothing and balancing action on sensitive skin or skin prone to redness.
Evening primrose oil
Light, fine, and very well tolerated. An ideal choice for soothing reactive skin without saturating it.
Sea buckthorn oil
Very concentrated in antioxidants and omega-7, it supports radiance and an even complexion.
Prickly pear seed oil
Very rich in vitamin E and essential fatty acids, it has powerful antioxidant properties. It is particularly interesting for mature, dull, or oxidative stress-damaged skin.
Sunflower oil (high oleic)
Stable, gentle, and protective, it effectively supports the skin barrier.
Avocado oil
Richer, but deeply nourishing for dry and dehydrated skin.
These oils share the common trait of being compatible with the hydrolipidic film and integrating naturally into the skin.
Richer oils: useful, but should be adapted
Some plant oils, although natural and beneficial, are not suitable for all skin types.
Their texture, composition, or saturated fatty acid content can create an overly rich sensation or be more film-forming.
They can:
leave a more noticeable sensation on the skin
slow the absorption of certain active ingredients
be less suitable for combination or congested skin
Contrary to popular belief, the skin does not “breathe” in the strict sense. It is rather an effect of a film that is too occlusive or unsuitable for the skin’s condition, rather than an actual blockage of skin “respiration.”
These oils are not problematic in themselves. They should simply be used:
in smaller quantities
blended or in synergy
or in specific contexts (very dry skin, targeted areas, cold climates)
They are not “bad.” They are simply less versatile .
An overly occlusive oil may not be ideal for reactive, congested skin, or skin experiencing active inflammation.
The skin barrier: understanding what makes a real difference
To determine whether an oil will regulate or weigh down the skin, it is often enough to return to a simple question:
does this oil support the skin barrier, or does it create an imbalance?
A well-suited oil:
- is well absorbed (integrates into the hydrolipidic film)
- respects the microbiome
- supports water retention
- improves comfort
- promotes suppleness
A heavier oil:
- remains on the surface
- can block the diffusion of active ingredients
- can increase heat or redness
- accentuate the occlusive effect in a hot or humid climate
Once again, it all depends on the skin, the season, and the dosage.
There is no perfect oil for everyone.
There are sensible and coherent choices for every skin type.
The importance of blending: balance above all
An oil on its own can be magnificent… or confusing.
But a well-formulated blend often allows you to get the best of both worlds:
the richness of a more nourishing oil and the lightness of a regulating oil.
This is the logic behind Shakti lipid serums, whose structure is designed to:
- integrate naturally into the routine,
- support the skin barrier,
- nourish without weighing down,
- soothe sensitivities,
- support skin toward a more stable state.
It is all a matter of consistency and respecting the skin's natural physiology.
How to choose the right oil for your skin
The choice always depends on the skin's condition. And we recommend consulting a skincare professional, but here is a simple guide:
Combination skin
Opt for light oils: jojoba, sunflower, camelina, hemp.
Dry skin
Go for more nourishing oils such as avocado, argan, evening primrose, and borage, while maintaining balance.
Sensitive skin
Favor stable and soothing oils such as calendula, jojoba, camelina, and high-oleic sunflower.
Congested skin
Avoid oils that are too occlusive or saturated, and opt for light, quickly absorbed, and well-tolerated oils.
Mature skin
Choose oils rich in antioxidants and regenerating properties, such as sea buckthorn, argan, prickly pear, or rosehip.
The Shakti philosophy: choosing oils for what they truly offer
At Shakti, we select our oils based on their affinity with the skin, their stability, their purity, and their ability to support, not to mask its needs.
An oil should support a natural process, not seek to replace it.
It should blend in, not impose itself.
And above all, it must respect the skin in its current state.
This is the philosophy that guides each of our blends, and makes the difference between an oil that balances… and an oil that weighs it down.