You're looking at a product's ingredient list and you see this: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Tocopherol... And you say to yourself: "What is this gibberish?" The good news is that it's not gibberish. It's Latin, a little English, and a few chemical names. And once you understand the logic behind it, you'll be able to read an INCI list like a restaurant menu. You won't know every dish by heart, but you'll know exactly what to look for. This article is your decoding guide. By the end, you'll be able to read a label, understand what you see, compare two products, and explain to your client what's in what she puts on her face. That's what being a professional esthetician is all about. First: what is an INCI? INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It's an international nomenclature system that standardizes the names of cosmetic ingredients worldwide. Why Latin? Because Latin is a neutral language that doesn't change from one country to another. The Latin name of a plant is the same in France, Japan, Brazil, and Quebec. This allows anyone, anywhere, to know exactly what's in a product. So when you see Lavandula Angustifolia, you know it's English lavender or true lavender, regardless of the language of the country where the product was manufactured. It's actually very practical once you understand the logic. Rule number 1: order is everything This is the most important and useful rule. Ingredients are always listed from most concentrated to least concentrated. The first ingredient on the list is the one present in the largest quantity in the product. The last ones are present in the smallest quantity. What that means in practice: If you see a product that boasts of being "with rosehip oil" but the rosehip oil (Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil) appears in 18th position out of 20 ingredients, it's there in a rather minimal quantity. The product is mainly composed of the 17 ingredients that precede it. Conversely, in our Shakti & Aya products, the first ingredient is almost always aloe vera leaf juice (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice). This means that the base of the product is not water, it's aloe vera. It's a significant formulation choice. 💡 Quick tip: The first 5 to 7 ingredients generally represent between 80 and 95% of the product. That's where the bulk of the formula lies. Rule number 2: the 1% threshold There is one important exception to the order rule: ingredients present at less than 1% in the formula can be listed in any order after the others. In practice, this means that from a certain point in the list, you can no longer know with certainty which one is in a greater quantity than the other. Everything after this "invisible threshold" is present in a very small concentration. How to spot this threshold? It's not always obvious, but a few clues help: Preservatives (potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, levulinic acid) are almost always at less than 1% and are found towards the end of the list Essential oils are generally at less than 1% Highly concentrated actives like encapsulated vitamin C (Ascorbyl Glucoside) or hyaluronic acid (Sodium Hyaluronate) are effective at a very low dose and are often found in this zone Rule number 3: names have a logic INCI names are not random. They follow conventions that help you identify what you are looking at. Plants: Genus Name + Species Name + Part Used + Form This is the most common and easiest pattern to decode once you know it. Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract Lavandula = genus (lavender) / Angustifolia = species (narrow-leaved, it's English lavender) / Flower/Leaf/Stem = flower, leaf, stem / Extract = extract Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Aloe = genus (aloe) / Barbadensis = species / Leaf = leaf / Juice = juice Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil Pelargonium Graveolens = rose geranium / Flower = flower / Oil = oil (essential oil here) Calendula Officinalis Flower Water Calendula Officinalis = calendula / Flower = flower / Water = water (floral water, hydrosol) Words to remember in English: English word What it means Leaf Feuille Flower Fleur Seed Graine Fruit Fruit Root Racine Bark Écorce Stem Tige Kernel Noyau Oil Huile Extract Extrait Water Eau (florale ou autre) Juice Jus Powder Poudre Butter Beurre Chemical ingredients: they describe what they are Sodium Hyaluronate: sodium salt of hyaluronic acid (hyaluronic acid in its most stable, small and best absorbed form) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: triglyceride of fatty acids (caprylic and capric) from coconut oil. The "triglyceride" tells you that it's a light oil, the rest tells you where it comes from. Ascorbyl Glucoside: vitamin C (ascorbyl) linked to a glucose molecule (glucoside) to stabilize it. You see the word "ascorb"? It's always vitamin C. Cetearyl Alcohol: fatty plant alcohol. The word "alcohol" is scary, but fatty alcohols in cosmetics do not dry out the skin, it's the opposite. They soften, thicken and stabilize the texture. The major families of ingredients to recognize Once you know how to identify the families, the list becomes much less intimidating. The base of the product This is what makes up the majority of the product. In natural formulas, you will see: Aqua / Water / Eau: purified water, classic base Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice: aloe vera juice, hydrating and soothing base. In our Shakti formulas, it's almost always the first ingredient. It's not by chance: it's a positioning choice that says "our base can bring more than water. In our formulas Emollients and plant oils These are the ingredients that nourish, soften and protect. You will often recognize them by the word Oil or the word Butter in their name. Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil: jojoba oil (our star in the treatment room) Olea Europaea Fruit Oil: olive oil Persea Gratissima Oil: avocado oil Butyrospermum Parkii Butter: shea butter Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: light coconut oil, very common in our formulas Humectants They attract water and maintain hydration in the skin. Glycerin / Glycérine: classic botanical humectant, present in many formulas Propanediol: plant-based humectant (beet or corn), natural alternative to propylene glycol Sodium Hyaluronate: hyaluronic acid, the star of hydration Inulin / Inuline: prebiotic and plant-based humectant A good formula does not only seek to hydrate. It must also support the skin barrier to help the skin retain this hydration. Emulsifiers They allow water and oil to coexist in a cream. Without them, the product would separate like a vinaigrette. Cetearyl Glucoside: gentle plant emulsifier Cetearyl Alcohol: fatty alcohol, emulsifier and thickener Glyceryl Stearate: gentle emulsifier derived from glycerin Actives These are the ingredients that do the specific work promised by the product: anti-aging, brightening, soothing, firming. They are often present in small quantities but are highly concentrated in active principles. Ascorbyl Glucoside: encapsulated vitamin C, brightening and antioxidant Acmella Oleracea Extract: our "plant botox", smooths wrinkles Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract: beech bud extract, protects cellular DNA Pisum Sativum Extract: pea extract, firming Kigelia Africana Fruit Extract: kigelia extract, toning and firming Preservatives They prevent the product from being contaminated by bacteria and mold. They are therefore essential for a stable and safe formula. In our formulas, they are gentle and natural-origin preservatives. Potassium Sorbate / Sorbate de potassium Sodium Benzoate / Benzoate de sodium Levulinic Acid / Acide lévulinique Sodium Levulinate / Lévulinate de sodium Sodium Anisate / Anisate de sodium pH regulators They adjust the acidity of the product so that it is compatible with the natural pH of the skin and they also ensure that the preservatives do their job properly. An unbalanced pH in a cosmetic can harm the safety power of a preservative. Citric Acid / Acide citrique Sodium Citrate / Citrate de sodium Lactic Acid / Acide lactique (can also be an exfoliating active depending on the concentration) Thickeners and texturizers They give the texture and hold of the product. Xanthan Gum / Gomme xanthane: natural thickener from fermentation Cellulose Gum / Gomme de cellulose: derived from plant cellulose Carrageenan / Chondrus Crispus: thickening red algae Practical exercise: let's break down a real Shakti formula Let's take the INCI list of the Biopeptide & AHA Serum: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, propanediol, glycerin, coco-caprylate/caprate, Pisum Sativum (pea) extract, sodium hyaluronate, pullulan, sodium stearoyl glutamate, levulinic acid, lactic acid, sodium levulinate, sodium gluconate, water, Chondrus Crispus (carrageenan), potassium sorbate, Cymbopogon Martini oil, Pelargonium Graveolens flower oil, bentonite, tocopherol (vitamin E). Let's break it down together: The base (the first ingredients, the bulk of the product): Aloe vera juice first. Not water, aloe. The base is already hydrating and soothing even before adding anything. Propanediol and glycerin follow: two hydrating humectants that retain water in the skin. Light emollients: Coco-caprylate/caprate: a light oil derived from coconut. Silky, non-comedogenic texture. Actives (the heart of the serum): Pea extract (Pisum Sativum): firms, stimulates collagen. Sodium Hyaluronate: hydrates and plumps. Pullulan: immediate tightening, smoothing effect. Lactic Acid: our gentle AHA, both exfoliating and hydrating. Bentonite: gentle detoxifying clay. Tocopherol: antioxidant vitamin E. Natural preservatives: Levulinic Acid, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Gluconate, Potassium Sorbate. All of natural origin, all towards the end of the list as expected. Essential oils (actives and fragrance): Palmarosa (Cymbopogon Martini) and pink geranium (Pelargonium Graveolens). Present at the end of the list, so in low concentration. They provide both the aroma/therapeutic properties that characterize the product. **Note during the health assessment for clients reactive to essential oils. What you can tell your client with this reading: "This serum has an aloe vera base, not just water. It contains hyaluronic acid for hydration, pea extract for firmness, and lactic acid which will gently exfoliate and brighten the complexion. It's light but very active." How to compare two products Now that you know how to read a list, here is how to quickly compare two products. Step 1: Look at the first 5 ingredients This is the heart of the product. If two products have the same first 5 ingredients, they are very similar, regardless of what is marked on the packaging. Step 2: Look for the actives you want If your client wants hydration, is Sodium Hyaluronate high in the list or at the very bottom? If it's at the bottom, the concentration is minimal. Step 3: Spot the problematic ingredients Silicones (Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane), mineral oils (Mineral Oil, Paraffinum Liquidum), sulfates (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate). In our Shakti & Aya formulas, you won't find them, but it's useful to know how to spot them when a client shows you a product from their routine. Step 4: Count the preservatives A product with 5 or 6 different preservatives raises a question about the stability of the formula. In our products, the preservatives are few and of natural origin. Step 5: Be wary of very short lists A list of 4 or 5 ingredients on a moisturizer is often too good to be true. Either the formula is very simple (and that's fine if the ingredients are good), or some ingredients are grouped under generic names. How to explain an INCI to your client without losing them You don't need to explain everything. You need to explain what concerns them. The 3-point technique: Choose 3 key ingredients and explain each in one simple sentence. Example for the Total Youth Cream: "This cream contains carrot stem cell extract that protects the youth of your skin, hyaluronic acid that hydrates deeply, encapsulated vitamin C for an antioxidant shield effect that lasts throughout the day. And you'll notice that the first ingredient is aloe vera juice, not just water." Phrases that work well: "The first ingredient is what is in the largest quantity in the product. Here, it's..." "Do you see this Latin name? It's simply the scientific name of..." "The ingredients towards the end of the list are in very small quantities but very active, like..." "Preservatives are what make the product last without the refrigerator. Ours are all natural." What not to do: Do not read the entire list out loud to your client. They will tune out immediately. Select, summarize, simplify. Your role is to translate, not to recite. The little survival lexicon Here are the words you will encounter most often and what they mean: INCI Term Quick Translation Aqua / Water Purified water Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Aloe vera juice Glycerin Plant-based glycerin, humectant Propanediol Plant-based humectant Sodium Hyaluronate Hyaluronic acid Tocopherol Natural vitamin E Ascorbyl Glucoside Encapsulated vitamin C Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Light coconut oil (fractionated) Cetearyl Alcohol Plant-based fatty alcohol, non-drying Xanthan Gum Natural thickener Potassium Sorbate Natural preservative Sodium Benzoate Natural preservative Levulinic Acid Natural plant-based preservative Citric Acid Citric acid, pH adjuster Parfum / Natural Parfum Aromatic blend, natural (for Shakti and Aya) Extract Plant extract Oil Vegetable or essential oil Water (after a plant name) Floral water / hydrosol In summary: your 5-step method When you look at an INCI list, follow this order: Look at the first ingredient. This is the base of the product. Is it water, aloe, an oil? This already tells you a lot about the nature of the formula. Read the first 5 to 7 ingredients. This is the majority of the product. You already understand the essentials. Look for the key actives. Spot the ingredients that correspond to the product's promises. Are they high or low in the list? Spot the preservatives. They are almost always towards the end. Check if they are natural or chemical. Note the essential oils and fragrances. They are often at the end of the list. These are your allergen alerts to cross-reference with your client's health assessment. An ingredient is never judged alone. The concentration, stability, and overall coherence of the formula greatly influence the final result on the skin. Reading an INCI list is not about learning complicated words. It's about learning to understand the logic of a formula... and to better advise the skin in front of you.
